The Christmas Decorations

The Christmas rose will grow in ordinary soil, but will give best results in sandy loam enriched with rotted cow manure and leaf mold, and should be top-dressed annually. It likes a moist but well-drained location that is shaded at least half of the day. It does remarkably well in the shrub border making friends with our malibu lights but also enjoys life under tall deciduous trees. H. niger has even been grown among evergreens, but such shade is inclined to be somewhat too heavy. Once planted, it does not like to be disturbed, though after several years, stock may be increased by division of the clumps in the Spring. 

Still another attribute endears the Christmas rose to us, for it is ideal for flower arrangements. One evening last January, I was delightfully surprised to find in the town's library a pale green bowl filled with the lovely Christmas rose which had been grown locally. 

It makes a very stunning arrangement for a Christmas dinner in a low silver bowl, with silver candlesticks holding pale green candles. With this may be used pale green china or white china edged with fine lines of pale green, silver and gold; crystal stemware; or white damask cloth and napkins. Or the Christmas rose may be placed in a light green glass bowl - so flat it is almost a plate - with a piece of green glass or slag. 

Accompanied by pale green candlesticks holding candles of a darker tone of green (the green of the foliage), white Wedgwood china and deep green goblets, it is a dinner setting in a subtle, harmonious color plan. 

Perhaps a suggestion for one less formal, livelier and in a happier mood for a family gathering would be welcome. Pine or balsam fir or spruce or yew may be inserted in a block of plastic ""snow"" or in holes bored into a piece of wood (a narrow bread board serves the purpose nicely). A spray or two of holly may be added for a touch of color.

Spa Products Keep The Water Sparkling Clean, Creating A Backyard Oasis

There is nothing worse than swimming or lounging in a spa filled with murky water. Only the bravest souls will venture in for a dip, with everyone else sitting politely beside the water in their lounge chairs, rather tense. Spa products make the water clean and fresh and packages of these make perfect holiday gifts.

Sanitizers are essential spa products for those who want to prevent residue build up and disinfect the water in their spas. Easy Brome is one sanitizer for use with hot water that removes organic waste from the water and disinfects without leaving an insoluble or cloudy residue. Spa owners can purchase Spa Swat to accompany this disinfectant. Spa Swat is both a clarifying and oxidizing treatment that eliminates organic contaminants and provides a sparkle to the water.

As their name implies, balancing products restore the proper balance to the spa water, providing a more comfortable experience for occupants. They do things like raise or lower the pH level, increase alkalinity level, and increase or decrease water hardness. Spa Logic Minus is a unique product because it is one of the few pH-reducing spa products available in liquid form. When the balance of the constituents of the spa water is achieved, occupants will not experience skin or eye irritation.

Some spa products are designed to improve the cleanliness and clarity of the water. Accumulated grease and dirt deposits are removed from spa cartridges, allowing them to operate in peak form. Other products neutralize particles suspended in water, so they can be filtered. Results are improved water clarity and that added sparkle so many spa owners desire. Spa acrylic products remove mildew, rust, and hard water stains from the spa walls and floor.

Conditioners perform various valuable functions to keep the spa looking and operating like new. Stain control products prevent corrosion, scaling, and stains, and these are used when the spa is initially filled with water. Foam control eliminates any foam that is present and keeps it from returning. Some products are designed to prevent the components of the heating system from corroding and others deliver natural enzymes, resulting in healthier water.

In addition to using these spa products, spa owners should keep some general guidelines in mind. The spa filter needs to run a minimum of three hours each day and the water temperature should not exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit. Testing of the sanitizer should take place daily and levels should be kept at three to five ppm. Daily testing of the pH level should also take place and a reading of 7.2 to 7.8 should be maintained.

Following these guidelines and using spa products as required will keep the water clean, clear, and free of any harmful impurities. Guests will comment on the attractiveness of the water and will be eager to have some moments of relaxation. Keeping the spa in peak shape allows it to become the backyard oasis the spa owner has always dreamed of, and it will be enjoyed every day.

Water World Home & Leisure Centre is a family-owned and operated business, founded in 1975, offering customers quality products and outstanding service for nearly thirty years. Specializing in custom, inground pool installations in the Peterborough and Northumberland County areas, and offering a full line of inground and above ground options, along with a wide range ofspas and all the chemicals and accessories you would ever need.

Hot Tub FAQs

1. How much should I expect to pay for a hot tub? 
Hot tubs may cost from as low as $2,000 to as high as $25,000. The cost of hot tubs depends on their size, make and features. The least expensive hot tubs are usually the simplest while the most expensive ones are loaded with complex, state of the art features. This doesn’t mean to say that the cheap hot tub is made of lowest quality and the expensive hot tub is that of highest quality. The single hot tub person is the cheapest and the price increases as the capacity does. 

2. How hard is it to care for a hot tub? 
Simple maintenance such as sanitizing and water balancing takes only about 10 minutes. You need only to have the right chemical solutions for your hot tub. For your convenience, stock up on hot tub chemicals to avoid having to go to the stores all the time. For sanitizing, stock up on chlorine or bromine. Bromine is more convenient since it comes in the form of a tablet and you need only to wait for it to dilute in the water. Chlorine has a milder smell than bromine, however, so you might want to take that in consideration. 

3. I heard about hot tubs needing the right levels of pH and alkalinity. What is that about? 
You need to achieve the right levels of pH and alkalinity for your sanitizers to work properly. Purchase test strips to check your water supply’s pH and alkalinity. Required levels are 7.2 to 7.8 for pH and 80-150 parts per million (ppm). PH- and pH+ are used to balance pH levels, while alkalinity can be balanced by using kitchen vinegar and baking soda. Hot tubs with high alkalinity can be tapered by pouring vinegar. Baking soda is used to achieve the opposite. 

4. What are the benefits of hot tubs? 
Hot tubs have a great range of benefits, from providing a relaxing experience to the user to treating illnesses like rheumatoid arthritis to diabetes and cardiovascular diseases. Athletes have been known to include hot tubs in therapy of their injuries. When dipping in hot tubs, the warm water and the jets of hot tubs improve blood circulation, which brings nutrients efficiently into the injured area, speeding up the healing process. The warmth of the water and the motion of the jets mimic the movement within the womb of a mother, which is soothing to the user. 

5. Are their risks associated with hot tubs? 
As Spiderman’s Uncle Ben said, “With great power comes great responsibility”. This is true in all facets of life. Owning a hot tub has numerous benefits, but also poses as many hazards if you do not practice responsible ownership. Proper sanitation must be enforced at all times to avoid contracting diseases like hot tub rash and genital herpes. You must also be careful about sharing hot tubs with other people you’re not sure of hygiene practices. Alcohol and drugs must never be taken when in hot tubs as these are can be very dangerous to the point of being fatal. 

Getting Rid of Standing Water in Your Yard

Do you have one or more areas in your yard that hold water after a rainfall? This is a common problem, and sometimes difficult to solve. Over the years I’ve talked with dozens of people trying to battle this problem, and on several occasions I have been hired to solve the problem. So what can be done? 

Too often people come to me asking what kind of a tree, or what kind of shrubs can be planted in a wet area to dry it up. This is the wrong approach. Most plants, and I mean almost all plants are not going to survive in an area where the soil is soggy for extended periods of time. The roots need to breathe, and planting a tree or shrub in a water area will kill it. 

Another common approach is to try and fill the area with topsoil. Depending on a variety of variables, this can work, but many times adding additional soil to a wet area will only shift the water to another area just a few feet away. 

If you are lucky enough to have some natural fall to your property, or a drainage ditch nearby, this problem is easy enough to solve. If you happen to live in an area that was developed over the past few years, there might even be a system to remove storm water nearby. In many new home developments I’ve seen storm water catch basins already installed in backyards. Trust me, this is a good thing. There is nothing worse than having a soggy yard all the time. 

If you are fortunate to have some fall to your yard, or a storm water system that you can drain water into, this problem is easy to solve. Make sure you check with your local officials before you do anything at all with a storm drain.

All you have to do is go to your local building supply center and buy some 4” perforated plastic drain pipe. The best kind for this purpose is the flexible kind that comes in 100’ rolls. This type of drain pipe has small slits all around the pipe. These slits allow water to enter the pipe so it can be carried away. 

Just dig a trench from the center of the low area you are trying to drain, to the point that you intend to drain it to. Using a simple line level you can set up a string over top of the trench to make sure that your pipe runs downhill all the way. A line level is a very small level that is designed to attach to a string. Any hardware store sells them for just a couple of dollars. Set the string up so it is level, then measure from the string to the bottom of your trench to make sure you have constant fall. You should have 6” fall for every 100’ of pipe. 

The highest point is going to be the area that you are trying to drain, so you only want your pipe deep enough at this point so it can be covered with soil. Once the trench is dug just lay the pipe in. At the highest end of the pipe you’ll need to insert a strainer into the end of the pipe to keep soil from entering the pipe. Cover the pipe with some washed stone, and then backfill the trench with soil. The washed stone creates a void around the pipe so that the water can find its way into the pipe.

Washed stone is usually inexpensive stone that has been washed so it is clean and free of mud. The only part of the pipe that needs to be exposed is the low end, where the water exits the pipe. Do not put a strainer in that end. 

If you do not have anywhere that you can drain the water to, you still might be able to do something. But first consider what is happening, and why the water is standing where it is. Even if you have well drained soil, water can not soak in fast enough during periods of heavy rain, and it runs across the top of the ground and eventually finds the lowest point, and either leaves the property, or gets trapped. 

If you have well drained soil, the trapped water usually soaks in. If you have heavy clay soil, the water lays there, and the soil underneath becomes very compacted, and the problem compounds itself. The more water that stands, the worse the drainage gets. 

What I have done in areas like this, where there is standing water but nowhere to drain it to, is to install a French drain system that actually carries the water away from the low area, and allows it to seep into the ground over a larger distance, where the soil is not quite so compacted. To install this French drain system you do everything exactly as explained above, except instead of draining the water to a lower area, you can send it in any direction you like. Even in the direction from which it came, which is uphill. 

When installing this type of system, it’s a good idea to dig a number of shorter trenches, all heading away from the area where the water stands. Using the line level, make sure your trenches fall away from their point of origin so once the water enters the pipes it will flow away from the wet spot. What is going to happen is that during times of heavy rain the low area is still going to trap water, but much of that water is going to seep into the drain pipes and eventually leach into the soil under each trench. 

Because this soil has not been compacted by the standing water and the baking sun, it will accept the water. It won’t happen near as fast as if you could just drain the water to a ditch, but at least you will have a mechanism in place that will eventually disperse the water back into the soil. It’s a lot easier to leach 200 gallons of water into a series of trenches that total 100 lineal feet, than it is to expect that water to leach into a 10’ by 10’ area that is hard and compact.

The sound of the S4

Every morning as I get in my car to leave for work, I see my neighbour from a few doors down pulling out in his new Audi S4. I always delay getting in to my car so that I can hear him pull off; the sound of the V6 Supercharged engine at 6:30am always puts a smile on my face. I’m a petrol head, there, I said it. I went with him to buy used Audi S4 in Oxford a couple of years ago. 

During the summer months my neighbour and I often take our cars round the back and wash them and chill with a can of beer. We both love our Audis and have mutual respect for each other’s cars. I used to have an S4 but I recently traded that in for a S5 as my kids are now grown up and no longer need lifts from me! 

The S4 uses a 3-litre TFSI V6 engine, producing 328bhp and 325lb of torque. It can do 0-62mph in 5.1 seconds, as is the norm now a day it is electronically limited to 155mph. My neighbour drove over to Germany last summer and while he was there he got his car de-restricted so that he could “stretch its legs” on the autobahn. My neighbour drove over to Germany last summer and while he was there he got his car de-restricted so that he could “stretch its legs” on the autobahn. 

Although the S4 is all about power and performance it does have very impressive fuel consumption and CO2 figures. On a combined cycle it can return 29.1 MPG and emit 225g of CO2 per Kilometre. My neighbour has the S-Tronic gearbox which further improves fuel economy to 30.1 MPG and 219 grams of CO2 per Kilometre – not bad for a high performance saloon.